Growing up in Sunny Southern California, I apparently have some prejudices about what surfing should look like.
Insulated wet suits are not part of the picture I have in my head.
You should see the bottom when the tide goes out.
When Tom tried to teach me to surf in 1979, I was too scared. (What?!)
When Alma taught me in 2007, I was too out of shape (hey, it got me to the gym and working out). And I realized I wasn't "scared" in 1979, as much as feeling awkward in front of a boy (Tom, not Alma) I wanted to continue to impress. And I didn't want to deal with the learning curve. And how I might look. So I was still nervously laughing at myself at Launiupoko Beach Park. I'm vain enough to think I shouldn't have a learning curve. But I do. And I'm getting ok with that.

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